The
island gathers, due to its various gifts,
a multitude of visitors every year. Between
them, many eminent figures, writers, poets,
artists- and in their works they have dedicated a
multitude of pages, where they describe their
memories from their accommodation on the
island, by the most colourful way- common
element to all of them is the admire, the
love and the impression that the island provoked
to them.
After
Stravonas and Pausanias, in the antiquity,
and a series of European excursionists (Chandler,
abbey Fourmon) during the possession by the
Turks, during our century, we stop in two
names: Henry Miller and George Seferis.
Henry Miller
The
famous American writer visited Poros around
the year of 1938, during his trip in Greece.
He describes his impressions by the island
in "The Colossus of Marousi”. So, we are reading
in “the Colossus of Marousi":
<<(...)
there was the sea, but the coast was there,
the goats were climbing on the footpaths,
we were watching the lemon forest and this
madness that is inside its aroma, was dominating
us, concentrating us, was uniting very tight
the one with the other, in a delirium of
self-abandonment. I
don’t know what moved me more; the lemon
trees that were in front of us, for the
view of Poros, like I suddenly understood
that we were sailing through its roads.
If there is a dream that I love more than
anything,
is to float on the land. When you arrive
in Poros you have the illusion that you
see a deep dream. Suddenly the land binds
you from all the sides and the boat is
driven
to a narrow passing that seems to have
no
ending. The men and women of Poros are
bending
on the windows, right over your head. You
are passing down their nose. The dawdlers
on the sea front are walking as fast as
the boat, maybe a bit slower, if they are
in the mood.
The
island is turning around cubistic scenes,
one of walls and windows, one of rocks and
goats, one of trees and bushes tortured by
the winds and so it goes on and on. Following,
there where the coast forms a curve, wild
lemon trees are found and there, during the
spring time, young and old are getting crazy
by the aroma of their juices and their flowers.
The
admittance in Poros is a sway and a surge,
you let yourself to get twinkled, like a
risk free pin-head between masts and nets,
in a world that only a painter could know
(...). As you float on the roads of Poros,
you are so glad like you are reborn. You
are so deeply happy so that you could remember
her (...)
The
boat, the passing, the walls around, the
sweet tremble of the ship, the bright jollification,
the green snakelike curve of the coast,
all these filled faces that bend on the windows
over your head, all of these, and the live
breath of friendship, likeness, are covering
you and are getting inside you, until you
blow up like a star and your heart scatters,
to scatter in thousand pieces (...)
Million
years may pass and I may come and come again
to the one or the other planet, like a human,
like a devil, like an archangel (I don’t
care how and by which way and where), but
my legs will not abandon this ship, my eyes
won’t stop to see the island, my friends
will never get lost. That was the moment
that stands, survives from world wars, because
it surpasses the same life of the earth.
If
I ever reach the total fulfillment of the
Being, which is taught by the Buddhists,
if I ever choose between reaching to Nirvana
or staying behind (…), I’ll say, let me stay
back, let me go back and forth like a benign
spirit over the roofs of Poros and see down
the traveler with a smile of peace and pureness.
I see a whole human race to struggle searching
for entering the bright and beautiful world.
If only they could come here, to disembark,
to stay here and all these people to relax >>.
George Seferis
Gearge
Seferis passed many days of his vacations
in Poros, in “villa Gallini”. There he wrought
a series of poems, among which is the great
“Kichli” (the bird mavis). Of course, we
meet Poros in other of his poems too:
<< Wherever
I travel, Greece is hurting me >>.
In
the diary of Seferis, we meet marvelous descriptions
of
the landscape of Poros, full of sensitivity,
lyricism,
but also a stochastic deepness:
Tuesday,
13 August 1946
<<It
has something from Venice: canal, communication
between the houses by boats, glamour, leisureliness,
sensual temptation (lemon-tree forest etc)
– a place for international notable lovers.
There is something from the closed place
here, with many magic tricks of course, something
from a pit of lust, with the moon
above, and all day, with the copper of the
music of the Coach place. Yesterday evening,
as I was going to sleep, I stood for a while on the balcony of my room and was looking
at the opposite crests >>.
Also,
descriptions of the sunrise, the light, the
sea, filled always with thoughts.
Monday
21 October 1946
<< I
opened the window-at the open sea, beyond
the Coach room, the plate of the sun was big,
bitten still by the horizon, it had a colour
that I had never seen before, the colour of
the cranberries juice, an idea lighter. The
sea was not graven, without a breath. The
pine needles were still like thorns of sea
urchins which lay in the depth of the clear
water. Over the line of the horizon, a black
ship dragged slowly, like the cloth of Karagkiozis
(a bozo), underlined this amazing garland
and got lost. Then, heels on the boards of
the staircase, suitcases, words, fingers -
everybody left.
I
went out to the veranda towards the sea,
the
time was 08:30, and the sun was high. It was
impossible to distinguish the night from
the
silence, the silence and the light from the
tranquility. Once the hearing was touching
a bang, a distant voice, a high twitter.
But
all these were in a way, closed somewhere
else, like the beat of your heart that you
were feeling in a moment and then you were
forgetting. The sea had no surface; just
the
opposite hills weren’t ended up to the line
of
the earth, but they were reaching beyond
down there, starting again one more blur
image
of their form which faded out smoothly in
the depth of a blank. A feeling, that there
is another forefront of life. (I write difficultly,
trying to avoid general words, trying to
describe
this indescribably thing). You knew the
surface
by looking far way the paddles, when they
were diving in a dry gleam, like a glass
is
breaking in the sun, or even – later- when
a boat passed under the house with its sails
open
and empty, totally mirrored in the water,
like a picture on a playing card. A feeling
that if a minor crack opens in that closed
vision, everything could get empty from
the
four points of the horizon and let you naked
and alone, looking for mercy, stammering
words
without accuracy... >>
The
light
of Poros is something that had deeply impressed
Seferis.
Typical
are the- scattered- reports, like:
Tuesday
8 October, in the morning
<<After
the swimming: The light is such that absorbs
you like the paper absorbs the ink – it absorbs
the personality>>.
Monday
2 December
<<I
am leaving with some extra “ideas” about
the light. It is the greatest thing that
that I “discovered” since the time the ship
of the return entered the Greek water (Hydra,
October 1944). Something of this expresses
“the King of Assini” and something the “Kichli”.
But I do not know if I could ever express
this basic, as I feel, this fundament of
life. I know that I have to live with the
light. Something more I do not know- I do
not know if I can make it >>.
Besides,
it isn’t random the fact that the light is
coming back continually, as a basic thematic
motif, in “Kichli” the great poem of Seferis
which was written in Poros (Kichli was the
name of a ship, which was sank in the port
of Poros).
However,
in the diary there are descriptions of the
island in other moments too.
Sunday
13 October
<<It
is drizzling all day long today. The grace
of this rain; the canal has taken the most
smooth colourings of grey to white- old-
mirror. Clouds that ride the mountains around.
From the window, the live aroma of the pine
tree>>.
The
abstracts
from the diaries of Seferis though,
could
continue for long. For reasons clearly
of
space, we stop here. We end the report to
the
poet with abstracts from “Kichli”. The poem
has been written in Poros, a thing not random,
as the reader is finding out.
The
wreckage of "Kichli"
<<This
wood that used to cool my forehead the hours
that the noon was heating the veins on foreign
hands, wants to bloom. Take it, I am giving
it to you, take a look, it’s a wood of lemon
tree...>> I heard the voice as I was
looking the sea to distinguish a ship that
was sank for years and was named “Kichli”,
a small shipwreck, the masts, broken, were
waving bendy in the depth, like tentacles
or a memory of dreams, its craft showing
a blur mouth of a big dead whale, faded
in the water. A big tranquility was spreading.
The light Angelic and black, light, a laugh of
the waves in the audience of Pontus,
tearful laugh, the old beggar is watching
you as he is going to step over the invisible
plates mirrored in his blood that delivered
Eteoklis and Poleinikis.
Angelic
and black, day The
glyph taste of the woman that poisons the
prisoner is going out the wave, cool branch
decorated with drops. Sing little Antigoni,
sing, sing... I am not talking to you about
past things, I am talking about love. Decorate
your hair with the thorns of the sun, dark
girl- the heart of the Scorpio reigned, the
tyrant has left from the inside of the
man, and all the daughters of Pontus, Niriides,
Graies are running towards the glitters of
the rising. Whoever had never loved, shall
love, in the light, and you are in a big
house with many open windows, running from
a room to a room, not knowing from where
to look firstly, because the pines will leave
and the mirrored mountains and the twittering
of the birds too.
The sea will get empty,
shattered glass, by the north and the south.
Your
eyes will get empty by the light of the day,
how all the cicadas stop suddenly>>.
(Poros,
"Galini", 31 October 1946).
Ioulia Dragoumi
The
writer Ioulia Dragoumi, who were passing her
holidays in the island during the beginning
of the century, describes her impressions
with sensitivity and lyricism in her books
“Stories of Poros” and “In their island” from
where comes the following abstract:
<<... the
sun had just been set and along with the
sunset the wind had totally fallen and
the sea had become calm. The sky behind
the sleeping had become emerald and rosy,
and the geraniums at the big pots had lost
their bright red colour. The opposite
mountains
of Peloponnese had a sweet colour of cherry,
in the sea, the mirror of the houses of
Poros was reaching until the depth with
shaky white lines, and in another place
the mirror of a cypress was distanced black-green
and unending...>>
Eventually,
Peter Gray has published in USA the book “
The people of Poros in their island”